Good Taste

If you’re lucky enough to land a coveted reservation at Toronto’s Alo – consistently ranked as one of the nation’s top fine-dining restaurants – chances are you’ll spy chef and owner Patrick Kriss (BA ’03) at least once. A history graduate from York University, Kriss has become a transformative figure in the culinary world, bringing meticulous attention to detail and unwavering commitment to excellence to every aspect of his culinary empire.

Kriss is omnipresent at Alo, a testament to his hands-on approach and dedication. In the open kitchen of his sleek, minimalist dining room, housed in a historic red-brick building at the bustling intersection of Queen Street West and Spadina Avenue, you’ll find him clad in crisp whites, perhaps placing a delicate leaf of tangerine lace atop an exquisite mackerel “tart” with caviar, or working alongside his brigade, scrutinizing each plate of contemporary French cuisine as it arrives on the pass. His watchful eye ensures every detail is perfect before the dish leaves his domain.

But Kriss’s vigilance extends beyond the kitchen. You may spot him strolling by the bar, observing his staff crafting picture-perfect cocktails as they chat convivially with guests. Or he may be perched casually within earshot of a four-top, listening intently to how a waiter describes a dish. He’s watching the diners too – for a reaction, a smile, an eyebrow raised in question. No detail is too small, no reaction too fleeting – it all goes in the bank.

This constant presence sets Kriss apart in an industry where many top chefs delegate floor management. For him, it’s about maintaining a direct connection with customers and staff, embodying a philosophy of continuous improvement that echoes the academic rigour he encountered during his university years.

“I always want the customer to come into Alo and feel like they can sit in their chair and feel like they’re on vacation,” Kriss says. “The customer experience is number one over anything – they always tell you what they are looking for … and if you have something that’s not working, you have to tweak it.”

Nine years after opening Alo to instant acclaim, Kriss still operates like a mad scientist, constantly tweaking and experimenting. His success is built on a feedback loop that drives continual refinement.

If you’re welcomed with caviar, you feel cool. It gets you in the mood

Kriss’s academic experience laid the groundwork for his professional journey, but it was in the kitchens of esteemed chefs where he truly honed his craft. He refined his approach under the tutelage of Daniel Boulud. During his three-year stint at the two-Michelin-starred Daniel in New York City, Kriss observed Boulud’s leadership skills: always present, coaching his team, giving feedback and encouragement. Kriss considers this the most important training he received.

The dining experiences Kriss has crafted – Alo is the flagship of Alo Food Group and its spinoffs Aloette, Alobar Yorkville and Alobar Downtown – are ever-evolving.

On opening in 2015, Alo was awarded four stars from the Globe and Mail, with the reviewer praising the audacious tasting menu concept as giving diners “exactly what they wanted – it’s just that … city diners did not yet know that they wanted it.”

What they wanted, it turns out, was caviar – in quantity – among other luxurious ingredients such as A5 Wagyu, foie gras and truffles. Kriss loves caviar “because it goes with everything and it’s a sign of luxury.” He deploys it strategically, perhaps on a canapé of raw Wagyu, where it accents the dish without stealing the limelight. “If you’re welcomed with caviar, you feel cool. It gets you in the mood – and it’s exciting for me to put it on a plate knowing someone is going to be able to eat that.”

Propelled by Kriss’s deft touch with rarefied ingredients, Alo debuted in the top 10 in Canada’s 100 Best Restaurants magazine, and then claimed the No. 1 spot four years in a row (2017 to 2021). “That was a remarkable achievement,” says Jacob Richler, the magazine’s publisher and editor-in-chief. “Alo opened with a carefully considered concept of conspicuous ambition. The judges responded to the elevated service, elegant room and the luxurious, internationally attuned product sourcing.”

Richler notes that Kriss’s kitchen demonstrates “unusual discipline and cutting-edge techniques” in producing a “highly contemporary expression of French cuisine.” Today, Alo sits at No. 3 on the magazine’s top-100 list. “Nearly a decade old, the restaurant is still pushing culinary boundaries and defining its category,” Richler adds.

When Michelin arrived in Toronto in 2022, Alo was one of only 12 restaurants granted a star. The Michelin star system, originating from the French tire company Michelin, is a hallmark of fine-dining excellence. Restaurants are awarded one to three stars based on the quality of their food, mastery of technique and overall dining experience. A single star signifies a “very good” restaurant, two stars indicate “excellent cooking that is worth a detour,” and three stars denote “exceptional cuisine that is worth a special journey.”

In 2021, Alo placed 98th on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list (which, despite its name, ranks 100 top spots), the only Canadian restaurant to make the cut.

Kriss makes it all look effortless, remaining poised even when dealing with a full house. But the journey wasn’t easy. Despite the accolades, it took a year for Alo to fill up consistently. Having invested $1 million in the space, the slow start led to some sleepless nights. The location at Queen and Spadina, known more for its fast food and fashion outlets than fine dining, added to the initial challenge.

“On opening, no one thought it was a good idea,” says Natalie Goldenberg-Fife, founder of event agency Gold & Fife. “At the time, tasting menus were out of favour, deemed precious, expensive and extravagant. But he took a category that most people were rolling their eyes over and made it exquisite, engaging and minimalist.”

Born in Belleville and raised in Scarborough, Ont., Kriss now lives in downtown Toronto with his wife, Donna, and son, William. Though never particularly drawn to cooking, he was attracted to the restaurant world’s energy and camaraderie. His culinary journey began at 14, flipping burgers at Lick’s, a once-popular Toronto chain known for its “homeburgers” and singing staff.

During his York University years, Kriss worked at the Rosedale Golf Club as a waiter and bartender. “I enjoyed my time at school, but I was not a good student,” he admits. While reading and writing didn’t come easily, he valued the discipline of absorbing and applying knowledge. “I had a really good teacher. She taught me how to write an essay.”

After graduating, Kriss enrolled in George Brown College’s apprenticeship program. He devoured cookbooks by Boulud and Thomas Keller, captivated by their meticulous approaches to everything from ingredient sourcing to plating.

Once ahead of its time, Alo now feels timeless, exuding a relaxed confidence in its mature era. Kriss does, too. Yet, as Alo Food Group’s 10th anniversary approaches, he radiates restless ambition.

With 375 employees, Alo Food Group has diversified successfully, from the casual Aloette Go concept to the Salon private dining events space and the restaurant and bar at Toronto’s Ace Hotel. Does Kriss worry about overextension? Not really.

“I don’t have an end goal,” he says. “I think it’s very difficult to stop in business because you start to go backwards. So that’s a worry. But when is it enough? I do ask myself, but I don’t have an answer.” Which is not entirely true. 

The answer, clearly, is more caviar. ■